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Offline daghoi

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My trip in Yuannen and more
« on: May 25, 2010, 05:36:51 pm »

I have enjoyed reading the travel reports at the site. So I decided to do a little write up from my recent travel, just back yesterday. I may warn you, it was not that eventful, and it might be more of a travel report than a love story.

This was my third visit to China so I felt relaxed about what to see and what to expect. My first visit was last winter when I travelled to Guangzhou to meet a woman that I had been writing to through Chnlove, for a period for 3-4 months. I covered it briefly at the Facebook pages. Short version is that it probably was the same woman that I thought that I wrote to, but she had no clue about who I was and what “we” had shared, even though I had received quite a few “real life” pictures. She was more nervous and out of place than me, so I just ended that quickly. Luckily I had looked into things to do if something like this happened. I travelled to Li River and Shanghai, had a great time, totally amazed on what I saw. When I left I knew I had to come back to see more of the country, no matter if I had a woman to meet or not. During the summer I wrote to a couple of women through a paying dating site. Since I had a few vacation days transferred from the year before and Finnair had a promotion on flights to Beijing. I left for Beijing in august (2009) for sightseeing and more..It was a nice vacation and I met a girl that was nice and we got along well, but nothing more. We continued to exchange emails and this winter I asked her if she would spend some time with me if I visited here again in the spring. Her answered was positive and we discussed some travel plans during the winter.

29th of april I left from Oslo to Beijing, when I arrived in Beijing on the morning on the 30th she waited for me at the arrival as she had promised. We recognized each other straight of way and after the usual polite greetings and hugs we took a taxi to the hotel. The hotel was convenient located close to the metro in the Sanlitun area. She helped me check inn and followed me to the rom and made sure that things was ok. After that she left for work and I showered and tried to get some sleep. When thing calmed down and I tried to sleep I realized that it had been smoked in the room. So down to the reception and ask for a non smoking room again, none available until next day. After the rest I took a walk in the area. It was quite nice area, several embassies’ in the area, included the Norwegian embassy. A very nice shopping area, 3:3 I think it was called, with a lot of brand name stores close by. The Bar Street was like 4 minutes away.

After she was finished at work we met up in the evening for a meal and more chatting to get to know each other more. Saturday we met at her place and made the final plans for the travel, we ended up with the following plans: Xishuangbanna, LiJiang Luku Lake and Shangri La. Ordered airline tickets for the first half of the trip. Very efficient as we all know, they were delivered at the door a couple of hours after she called and ordered them. The delivery guy called her while we were out for dinner and she told him that she could not make it back. None problem he could just wait and come later. Thinking of how things are back home if you have something delivered at the door. You better be at home whenever the delivery appears or you never know when they will find time to get to your house again. Rest of the weekend passed buy without any particular event. More eating and a few walks and some more get to know talk.
Already on Tuesday she had to leave for an out of town conference. Since we were leaving the following Sunday, she suggested that I could stay in her apartment when she was back from the conference, then it would be more efficient when we were leaving for the airport.
 My employer had been flexible and allowed to work remotely from Beijing this week. So I spent the mornings out walking and sightseeing, one day I did a run through Forbidden City.  I did visit the place last year, but then my camera was in my suitcase, which was delayed by the airline. So I wanted to do it again with my camera. Some pictures from that day are already on the web site.

Finally the Saturday arrived and I could move out of the hotel and take my bag on the metro and find my way to her place. Before that I had to check out of the hotel that turned out to be a test of patience. First I had a long discussion about some things that they I had deliver to my room, without me asking, so I thought that it was complimentary. It costed 20 Rmb so after a while I did not bother to argue more about it. While we had this discussion going they checked the room as the always do. Then I was asked to go to the room with two of the hotel staff.  When we get there on of them point out some minor scratches on the wall above the pillow. They were almost impossible to see without the light from the right angel. Said that they had not been there the day before and I must have med them with a pencil! I almost had a heart attack and did not know what to say. I just said that this is ridiculous and this is nothing to discuss. Then I left the room and they followed me and asked if I did it, and I said no. Luckily this was the end of it, but I will definitely not recommend this place or stay here again. After the commotion it was good to walk out on the street and towards the metro. During the first week I had a very sore throat, probably due to AC, at this time it had changed to cold with a blocked nose. 
When I arrived at her place it was introduced to her roommate. And shortly after it was out eating more, somebody see a pattern here ;) When we got back to her apartment we packed our backpacks for the trip and she made the sofa for me so I could sleep there.

Next morning we took a taxi for Beijing airport to get the morning plane to Xishuangbanna. This would be the first time this girl excelled. She travels regularly to the airport so she knows the fastest way to get there. This taxi driver did not take off the highway at the correct point and drove us into very slow traffic. Then the discussion started, in mandarin off course, words came in a speed and manner that I had not heard from her before. Then she asks me if we shall stop and change the taxi. I can only say that it is up to her, I do not know how bad it is and how much time we can except to use to the airport in this traffic. More hard words are exchanged in mandarin and the taxi takes off at the first exit, it still continues for a while, and shortly after the taxi comes to a stop and out we get. There is immediately a new taxi there and I waive it down, and from here it is a smooth ride to the airport. When we get there we check our bags and find our plane, first stop is Kunming where we have a 4 hours wait for our next plane, which will bring us to Xishuangbanna/Jinghong. After we have landed in we check with information what we can do for a few hours in Kunming. They give us two options, one is a flower marked the other one is a food street. Off course we choose the food street. We store our bags and get on the bus to this food street. It is only two stops from the airport, but without her speaking mandarin I would never made it there. When we get there it is very little going on, to early in the day it appear. We walk there and there is some traffic and other people walking there. To make sure we not lose each other we both find it convenient to hold hands, feels pretty good. We walk as long as the street are and stop for some food at the restaurant there. As so many times before she orders and picks out the food. We eat it with the ever present tea. After the meal we walk the same way back and now the street really start to come to live. Many food stalls have come up in the road and lot of different food are prepared and sold, together with products of dubious origin (copy products). We made our way back to the airport and get on the plane to Xishuangbanna/Jinghong. I still struggle with a strong cold, and by the time we arrive in Jinghong I have a light fever. Since we had booked the hotel there through Elong, the hotel offered a complementary pick up service which we had taken up on. We was picked up by a nice guy, very outgoing and chatty. Off course he offers his services to us for the next day, he offers to drives us to the sights we have planned to see. We get his card and take accept his offer. After we have checked in at the hotel. My girlfriend check out more about his offer and things we want to see. Make a phone call to a friend and we learn that we might want to do things in a different way. She calls the driver around 23:00 in the evening and call him off.

To be continued

Arnold

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #1 on: May 25, 2010, 05:57:48 pm »
To be continued ??? What without a time/date ... when ?  :'(
just have to read the first part all over again til part two is on it's way .  :-\

Offline Neil

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2010, 06:20:11 pm »
Patience grasshopper.  Good things come to those who wait.  Good story so far.  Thanks for sharing.
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Offline Irishman

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2010, 07:54:26 pm »
Very interesting  daghoi, nice detailed account! Your description of the light fever is very much like what I got last two times in Guangzhou during cold spells. I always seem to get a light cold  in China when it in a cold damp area. I guess its something to do with the lack of heating ??, yet i never ever get sick at home.
I'm really looking forward to reading about the rest of your trip!
Become the change you want today, or all your tomorrows will be like yesterday.

Offline Martin

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2010, 10:28:04 pm »
Great story Daghoi.  Glad you were holding hands so you didn't "get lost" (wink wink)

shaun

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2010, 10:52:45 pm »
Great story.  Can't wait for the next installment.  But I see a pattern developing.  Why does everyone who report about their trip leave everyone hanging for the next installment?

Offline daghoi

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2010, 04:38:32 am »
Thanks for the feedback, here is how thing unfold the next days. I realize this is a good “exercise” to me; it will help me with remembering details about the trip. Bear over with me if I add some details that may not make sense for you. I was not able to add this to my first post, so i just continues with a new one.

We have a good night sleep in our twin bed’s. It’s Monday morning (may 10) I had heard her snore like she promised; she pretty much snored as a guy. During the night I had turned up the AC to keep the room a bit warmer, she was not that happy with that, just a brief mention of it. Jinghong is a tropical area, close to the Vietnamese boarder. I felt better from the cold, but still far from good. We went out in the hotel garden and had good fun of the warning signs on the coconut palms. To my surprise we laughed pretty good of that, like two old friends who have same kind of humor. “Stay away, nuts may fall in your head”, with a picture of a matchstick man getting a coconut in the head. Picture will come. Shortly after we are off to the lobby and she talks to the receptionist about how to find the local bus station. The plan for the day is to visit a small village called Menghan and se the Dai minority park. This turns out to be like a 1 hour bus drive from Jinghong. Receptionist call for a taxi for us, which takes us to the bus station always surprise how affordable it is to use taxis in China. Took like 10-15 minutes in traffic and I think I payed something like 5-7 rmb. ( approx 1 usd/ 1€). As we all know when you is on a western European salary it is a very small amount. After buying the bus ticket, did some people watching, like checking out the one legged taxi driver, and visiting almost every stall there for water and snack from the right brand. We entered the bus, which as often before it was more like a minibus or a van. We got a pretty good seat just behind the driver so we could see how the traffic unfolded in front off. Jinghong is not that big city and as we moved out of the center the traffic got soon lesser. To me it was much to see and I like to watch around me and see all the small everyday activities. Like that small health clinic gave IV drip on the pavement, about 2 meters from where the diesel fuelled buses and truck’s drove buy. There the moms sat with the small children which got their IV drip. Always fun to watch the “scooter” driving. Not much there surprise me anymore, but this time I had two look twice. They were only two on the scooter, but I can swear that the girlfriend had a nap on her boyfriend shoulder while he was driving. She was so relaxed leaning forward on his back, talk about trust. Later the bus came to a stop for no obvious reason, next to the bust stood a small engine, no one to see. The driver just sat there silent. A little further in front of us a guy sat with his meal and bear, gave a short signal to the driver, emptied the bear and started to walk over to the bus. Then the small guy lifted this engine inside the bus and placed it next to my seat. We soon left the city and drove over the Lancang river. (Lancang river is called Mekong when running into Vietnam). As mentioned before this tropical area, almost like Thailand. We drove through a very green and lush area, small farm houses close to the roads. Pigs and chickens were walking roadside, rubber tree, nice view to the big river, a bit exotic for us western people. After on hours we drove into the little city of Menghan, bus drives into the little bus terminal. Then private “enterprise” shows itself again. Driver turns to us and says something in mandarin, get an answer, everybody els get off. Eventual I have to ask if this is our stop. My girlfriend smiles and says to me that the bus driver will drive us to the Dai Minority Park in the bus, for the cost of 4 rmb we are taken directly to the village/park. 

After we have left the bus there she starts looking at the price list for entering the village/park. A little on the pricey side according to her, (90 rmb) and all it is to walk around and look at houses and look at people. To be honest I like it when she thinks about the cost and if it gives us value for money. Then the cell phone appears again and she calls her friend which has travelled a lot and is a trained guide. A few minutes later I basically get the message that it is not worth the money, lets go for a walk in Menghan itself. So we start to walk back were we came from. A small sleepy village, almost none Han Chinese, mostly people of Thai, Burmese origin. After a while we find a small restaurant which she thinks is good. Menu is off course in mandarin only. So she orders something to eat for us, since the restaurant has no electricity for the moment not all the choices are available. Some fried rice and vegetable are orders + something that is on all tables, think it was mango with chili pepper. It tasted pretty good in the heat, but a few minutes later it really started to burn and I broke more sweat in the heat, to great amusement off course :)

After the meal we walked further in this village, looked at the thai houses and checked out a couple of small shops. In the end she finds a small shop where she buys us fresh coconut, which we drink with a straw. I get to sit in the only chair in front of the “counter” she makes her self comfortable on a small stool. We sit there for a while and she chats with the couple that run’s the small shop. I start to learn what a great people person she is. The couple tells about their life and I get it translated in English. This is something I get spoiled with during to weeks of travelling. She get the people to talk and she always have the patience to translate it to me and translate my questions again. The people running the shop is from Sichuan and had settled in Menghan due to the nice climate and that it was easier to make a living there. It is a small shop and for the time we sit there they only sell two more coconut to some local. So not much business, but as they tell us that they make it ok, they have what they need. They also tell us that they have sent away their only daughter to live with her aunt in Sichuan, since the school system is better there. So they only get to see her once or twice a year. Sitting there in very simple surroundings and with these happy smiling people make you think. We come from reach “west” and are never happy with all the things we have…..

After an “educational” hour or so we find our way back to the bus station and get on the bus back to Jinghong. The bus fills up and one of the last guys entering is a middle age guy with a suite, pc bag and a small bag. To my surprise the bag makes noises, it turns out that it contains chickens. It is placed under my seat and the guy light’s a smoke. Smoking and spitting are among the things I never get used to in China. This poor guys must have a serious problems, he pretty much smoke all the time back to Jinghong. Several people try to give him the evil eye, but he continues to smoke all the time. When he finally leaves the bus he manages to leave the burning cigarette inside bus. We get off the bus and start to walk around in Jinghong. There are a lot of fruit around and we start to talk about that. I like to sample different fruit and she really want to taste something called Jacks Fruit. She used to have this a lot when she lived in Singapore. Finally she finds a place selling this, after some negotiating they agree on the price and the fruit is opened and tasted. It turn out that it is not ripe, “discussion” starts and I can just stand there while these to woman have a go at each other (verbally). Aggressive mandarin is talked and I get some instructions in English, not to taste if offered etc.  This goes on for some time. The fruit was not ripe and the seller refused to admit it. As we walk away I dare to say to my girlfriend. “Remember me that I shall never get you angry” to my surprise the answer is “..no, you better not..!.”   Not the answer I expected, but I did not read much into it.

 After some time we find our way to a nice little park and promenade along Lancang river. We sit there and chat and enjoy the warm evening sun and view to the river. After some discussion we agree that we shall try to change our flight ticket to LiJiang so that we already leave the next day. Several phone calls later it turns out that we have to pay a fee to change the ticket and that we have to do that in bank. We make our way back to the hotel shower and walk out for dinner. After asking around we find our way to a area with some restaurant. I love the way these girls are not afraid to ask for direction and information. We walked down the street where the restaurant’s was and there are 3 or 4 outdoor type of restaurant’s beside each other. There is only one that is almost full the other has pretty much none customer. So it is an easy choice, we find us a table at the one that is practically full. Go over to the table were the food is placed, are handed a plastic basket and together we pick our food, hand it over to be cooked. I ordered an excellent fresh squeezed lemon jucie, tasted really well that warm night. Also had a beer and some tea no “rules” here, just drink what you desire. Think we paid something like 80/90 rmb, we had the drinks mentioned and 3-4 different courses that we shared. It was a very nice night, people sang and it was warm and nice, relaxed atmosphere. After that we walked back to the hotel.

Tuesday morning it is off to the bank to pay the fee for the ticket change. That turned out very difficult, after she paid, it required a lot off phone calls and argument before the airline “found” our payment and made our new ticket available. This took us 3-4 hours and two visits to the bank; the bank was very helpful though. We have a afternoon flight and while waiting for the flight we took new walk around. We found new fruit marked where they had the infamous Jack Fruit this time it is a young guy selling. He has one opened and offer us a taste before buying. They fruit is ripe and are accepted. I think it tastes a bit sweet with a kind of rubber consistence, but still good. We stand there and chat with the seller, off course she does, I eat. Then we walk away a few minutes later we ask each other “did you pay the guy ?” both say no. On the way out of the marked we find the seller again and ask him if we paid, he says yes. I’m still pretty sure we never paid this guy.


Time for the plane is approaching so we go back to the hotel and get our bags out of storage there. We do have the complementary transport to the airport and we claimed that. This arrived on time, I recognize the car. The driver never leaves that front seat he sends the bell boy for us. Off course is the same guy that picked us up, not so happy and chatty this time. Basically pretty pissed. After some problem with the trunk he asks us to leave the bags in the front seat and we get in, he hit the pedal to the metal and drives like hell. Not a word is said, just a grim face, we look at each other and giggle discrete. We reach the airport in record time ! We check our bags and get something to eat. We had such a good talk that we almost were too late to the security. This is a very small airport and when we finally approached the security check I hear something yelled in mandarin, my girlfriend smiles and tells me that they just shouted that the two last one is coming so not close yet ! We enter the plane and are on our way to LiJiang.

shaun

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #7 on: May 26, 2010, 06:46:04 am »
Great post!

Offline Martin

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #8 on: May 26, 2010, 09:45:42 am »
I am really enjoying your trip log!

Arnold

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #9 on: May 26, 2010, 11:44:27 am »
Ahh yes , two of the first things I learned in China . These People are mostly Happy , no matter how poor they are . They make the best of what they have and not cry what they don't . Also , they DON"T let themselves get cheated on anything to do with Money . That's a big plus with most of these Women .
Thanks for sharing this very detailed Story with us , good read and happy for you to experience part of everyday Life with your Lady . Enjoy the rest of your Stay .

Offline daghoi

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #10 on: May 27, 2010, 12:33:49 pm »

Here  is some more from my travel in may. May 11th we arrive in LiJiang and from the airport we drove through some very nice scenery. It was starting to get dark when we arrived in the Lijiang (old city). We walked down from between the narrow streets among a lot of people. A lot of  old fashioned  traditional Chinese houses. Today most of the old houses are shops and restaurant catering for tourist. Few western tourists find the way here.

We find our way to the hostel she had picked out. At this time I started to be very tired and not feeling that well. I kind of just was there and tried to be polite and not too much of a grumpy travel companion. At the hostel we find our rooms, but she is not to happy with it. We have a window out towards one of the streets we hear very god when people are walking by. I just want to go sleep, but she head down to the reception again and soon I have to move all our bags down one floor into a new room. I was not that happy with the new room, it was one of those “basement” rooms. No window and a little damp, since I’m in need for rest I do not say anything; I can sleep there a night or two.

Next morning we walk around in the old city. It has it qualities, those traditional houses and cobblestone covered roads, all pedestrian off course, but there are a lot of tourists walking around. At the square there are traditional dances shown etc. I think two days is sufficient here, but I get to stay more it turn outs. After we have had a look at the city we head back to the hostel to wash some clothes discuss travel plans.

 I still struggle with that cold and by now it has settled as a sinusitis. I have had this a few time during the years and I can easily recognize it. I explain to her about this, but to my surprise she has pretty much no clue about this. (Must add she speak excellent English, better than me). I use Google translate to translate this to mandarin, but she just briefly get it. I say that I probably need some medication to et read of this. After some time we head off to a pharmacy, try to explain the same there, but the guy seems not to understand very well and all the medication he suggested are with mandarin text only. So I’m not comfortable buying anything there and give up this attempt. I try to make the best of it, but spend the next hours sleeping and lying in my bed. Next morning I do get up and do some sightseeing with her, but feel really lousy. I have no appetite and in the evening when I try to eat I only manage to get down a few small pieces and the oily stuff at the table make me feel like vomit (sorry for poor chose of words). I have to excuse myself and go back to the hotel just a few minutes after the food come to the table. This turn out to be a kind of turning point for us. I’m lying in bed and doze off and thinking briefly that it took some time before she came back. Not sure after how long time, but suddenly it is like the door is thrown open and she almost run’s into the room. I’m kind if dizzy and really not understand what going on. Then she tells me with a big smile we have to get me on antibiotics. Since she come back to the hostel she has spent the time online and reading about my condition. She tells me all about the “effects” the sinusitis, headache, fever, aching in muscles and even that you can get “grumpy” she says with a smile, like that explained something for her…. She had spoke with the hostel and there was to hospitals in the city, one in the new city and one in the old city.  She asks where I want to go and that we can go straight away. I tell her that we can get some rest and go tomorrow morning. She tuck me in and tell me that I need a lot of rest to recover, she is like totally changed, from almost no interest when I tried to explain to now, a lot of empathy and she do not what good she can do for me. We have a little moment here, she comfort me and we somehow start to share from her life. How this reminds her about when her grandmother took care of her. (She grew up with the grandmother for most of her time). We share some good and not so good experiences from our life’s. It get a bit emotional at a point.   :D

Next morning around nine we are at the “hospital” in the old city. I do feel better, but are a bit concerned to be honest. Good thing we get very easy access to a doctor, not sure if a Chinese person in Norway would get as easy access to a doctor as I did here. Pretty much just walked in from the street and into the doctor’s office. A female doctor in mid 50 I would guess, speak none English so good I have translator. Explain what going on and she looks down the throat and after a few minutes she confirm what’s going on. My girlfriend translates and tells that I need the antibiotic, strong inflammation in the “airways” etc. She also tell’s me that the doctor want to give me the antibiotic through IV….This is all new for me and im kind of hesitate,  ask if I can get the tablet cure which I are more used. After the translation I kind see that the doctor is kind if impatient. I get explained that all needles are disposal all clean etc and that it is so strong inflammation that a tablet cure may take more than 10 days. So I eventual give in and accept the IV treatment. Get the prescription, all mandarin, feel very out of place. The place look kind of worn down, but reasonable clean, staff working there are look all clean. We go to the counter and pick up the medicine, get the shot to test for allergy for antibiotics. Sometime later I sit there and with my IV drip and my nodding and smiling to the other people there. Girlfriend chatting and translate what kind of diseases they all have. When they are finished they all smile and say “bye bye” to me, like some old friends. All kind of bizarre. Soon my girlfriend runs out to pick up the other tablets the doctor prescribed leaving me there all alone. She gets back and some two hours after we started I can walk out in the street again. I’m due in again the next morning and are ordered to take tablest three times a day for the next week or so. We walk slowly back to the hostel and check out, I get to choose where to have lunch ! I chose a western style restaurant and lucky enough I get a pretty goo chicken garlic sandwich, just what I needed at the time. So off course we take it easy for the rest of the day, changes hotel room, get a good deal on a spacious room with view over the old city. The room price went from 450,- to 200,- with very little effort and I short time. Even my girlfriend laughed and said she did not believe how easy that went.
When we arrive for my next treatment morning after we are approached by one of the touts sell guided tours. To my surprise girlfriend is interested and start talking to him. After some time we have to go to inside the hospital and agree to talk with him later. Almost two hours later when we leave he is still hanging around outside!
After some negation we agree on a price for a half day trip, to visit Lashi Lake, the frescos of Baisha and the village called Qiaotou which is similar to Lijiang a bit less crowded. We walk out of the old city with him and are met by his wife on a small van. They both drive us to Lashi Lake where we are presented with option for horseback riding and other activities. The presented prices are very steep so we pretty much go back to the car straight of way. Off course this tout was afraid losing his kickback. So the price dropped in an impressing rate. At the end we did buy a short trip which was very good. We got an excellent guide, very friendly and talkative man. The scenery was nice green, on small patches it was cultivated different vegetables, nice view to the lake and the surrounding mountain framed it nicely in. When we got back from the horseback riding the tout was gone. The wife still there and she tell us that he had to leave to pick up somebody at the airport. We drove to the see the frescos at Baisha, not much to see tough. As soon as we are finished there we understand that the time is running short, we did use some extra time on the horseback so it was partial our fault. The driver suggests she shows us the “backdoor” into Qiaotou so we do not have to pay the entrance fee. Then she also says that she will refund us what a bus back to Lijiang will cost us. With that the negotiation starts again. Girlfriend tells the driver that we check the transport cost when we get inside the village. When we get there she stops a random person working there and start to ask her. After some time and a growing unhappy face on the driver, money exchange, hands and we are on our one. I think the driver almost lost half of the price we agreed on to start with! After some walking and dinner in Qiaotu we find a minivan and heading back to Lijiang. Since we shared it with other we did only pay like 4-5 rmb for the 30 minutes drive back. That was much less then we got refunded by the unlucky driver.

We arrived back at the hotel around 21:00 tired and happy after a nice day out. Then we start to talk about going to Lugu Lake. Which is a place my girlfriend wanted to visit from we started to talk about travelling. It is place where they still practice “walking marriage” and it is a matriarchal society. (I will live it to the reader to do a google search if you like to find out more about this). After some investigating it turn outs that the road there is closed most of the day due to road work. In the end we buy in on a bus that starts 05:30 next morning. So we pack our bags and go to sleep to try to make a early start next morning.

Arnold

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #11 on: May 27, 2010, 02:27:01 pm »
Daghoi , very entertaining report like being right there with you .It must be aweful in a different Country and getting sick and rely on other People to make the choice for you what to give you . Most of the time it will help ... if they KNOW what the heck one has that is . haha

Offline Martin

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #12 on: May 27, 2010, 09:43:04 pm »
Like Arnold wrote...its like being there with you.  Great report!

Offline daghoi

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #13 on: May 30, 2010, 05:44:05 am »

It is Sunday morning here and I have time to write about my next stage and visit to Lugu Lake. I have created a couple of albums from the trip, you are welcome to have a look in the medi section. Album Yunnan and Yunnan II.

It is early Saturday morning (15th of may) in LiJiang and the time is approaching 05:30. We are standing at the meeting point where we should meet our bus driver. No one there and when we call the number we have been given we are told that he is not the driver, but soon he will get the correct driver for us. After a little while we are picked up by a “guide” and we walk towards the bus which is parked a few hundred meters away. I think it is a little unorganized, but decided to not to start the day with complaining.

We get to the bust and of course it is one of those 19 seater small busses. We see the other people of the group and they are all Chinese off course and appear younger than I first excepted. I would guess most are in their twenties all couples. The next few days this turn out to be a friendly group. Since the bus is not full we are told to throw the bags at the back of the bus and we find our seat just behind the driver. A good thing for me then I can stretch my legs a bit more. While we sit there we realize we hardly have anything to eat. We are excpected to get to Lugu Lake around 14:00. So im a little concerned about this. I also notice that there are something going in front of the bus. Some kind go argument are finding place. Off course im used to Chinese people talking loud, but this has that extra aggressive tone it it. Three/four men are standing there and exchanging words. As this is happening a woman boards (the” guide”) the bus and start to collect the receipts. Suddenly the smallest (!) of the men arguing is leaving the group. With a very aggressive body language he jumps into the driving seat. Smoking and coursing, slam the door very hard. Start the engine and hit full speed into the quite city street. My girlfriend complains about the smoking and get a very rude answer “that this is his bus, and he does what he like” ! I know he does not understand, but tell him not to smoke in the bus. A few seconds later the “guide” give him a real lesson in mandarin and the cigarette goes out the window. If possible the driving get even more aggressive. At a gas station we pull over and top of the tank, after that we drive back the same way we come from, passes the pickup point and heads out on the main road. It is a nice morning it is getting down and the beautiful light we may see in the morning is appearing. Local people are driving to work in their scooter and  among the morning mist. I can see the people start the work in the field. It is very nice if it was not for me holding on to my life! This guy takes the price. After some time the road get steep and the engine is not that powerful, so things calms down. As mentioned we are driving through some nice scenery. Wish I was capable to capture it on the photo, but they look so plain and flat. Suddenly we find ourselv on a top of a mountain pass. I look down the mountain side and im really impressed. What a view, far down there I can see the Yangtze and I can hardly even see the road down there. Not sure how far down it is, but it is a very impressive canyon. The driver start to descend and to my little fear he never change gear on the way down. Just the break, all the time. This might be the first time im concerned about our safety during my travel in China. The driver is also signing a little song, according to my girlfriend this is some kind of traditional Tibetan love song. During the same day we drove by 4-5 mountains passes and each time the driver start to sing this song as we start to go down. After we are at the bottom of the canyon and cross the river we start to ascend straight away. The we drive to the road that is under construction. For a long time we almost drive at walking speed. Bumps and holes, meeting construction vehicles etc etc. It does not matter that much to me because I just sit and are marveled by the mountain and the terrain. After we had been on the road for two hours or so we stop for a pee and snack break. 15 minutes later the bus driver herds us back into the bus. From then on he is everybody favorite bus driver, special the woman’s ! Some kind of magic happened the last hours or so. He is totally changed and turns out to be good entertainer and ladies man. From driver seat he tells jokes/stories and more singing. He must love to sing, because this goes on and on. The woman in the bus loves his singing and asks for encore all the time. He loves the attention and are happy to sing even more. At the end of the trip he tries to use the onboard speaker system. To me it appear that he has turned on some speaker that is outside the bus, because the sound has that distinct sound like when you hear it through a door/wall etc. I can only imagine how this look from outside. Some people roadside most have a good laugh to.
 The drive continues and the landscape change. It is still canyon and mountain tops, but greener and trees. Around 1 pm we have our first stop at a restaurant at Lugu Lake. It is a very happy group that leaves the bus, the driver is still doing he one man shows. Big change from the morning when we all wanted to kick him out of the bus, to now when all want him to sit down at the table with us.

He take some interest in me, but he speak none English so it is hard to communicate. I’m invited to pick out the fish that we shall have for lunch. So I head down to a big tank were they keep the fish. Catch a couple of them with a net, and the cook grab them and have them opened and cleaned in seconds. We had a nice lunch; I love this kind of food. Fresh vegetable and fish easy to eat and the surrounding make it taste even better. The group is starting to get know each other and there is a lot of talking going on, exchange of travelling experiences. My girlfriend has to update them on me. Were I’m from and how long I have been in china. Since this is an area that does not see that many western tourist she has to answer this question’s a lot. She jokes that I shall start to wear a sign so she does not have to explain this. I do think she kind of like to answer these questions though.
As always my girlfriend is way ahead of me. We had only bought the bus trip to get to Lugu Lake. During the day she has figured out that this was a ok group to be a part, and the program for the rest of the day was something we should participate in. So she has bought us in on this, do not know when that happened. So she tells me with a smile that it will be some time before we can look for a hotel, because…. First it is this boat trip on the Lake and then we shall drive around it with stops at viewpoint. Later it is visit and food at the drivers farm and in the end we will see local dances.
After lunch we head down to the lake and gather around some long boats. We are all placed in one of them and the driver is accompanied by a local man. Which will do the rowing together with the driver? This local man in the middle of the boat and the driver at the back of the boat. When we just have started the woman start to request songs ! They start to complain that they can not row and sign at the same time. Off course the woman shows no mercy, and they start to sing. It is some wind so it is hard work for them. The driver soon leaves the roving and focus o sighing and this cute single girl that has found her place next to him. Eventual we land on a small island in the middle of the lake, with a small Buddhist temple off. After taking picture and looking at the temple head back. The wind is even stronger, but the women show no mercy and demand more singing. At this point wish they could sing another song …. The boat trip took myaby and hour 90 minutes or so. When we are back at the bus, someone has fired up a small barbeque and we buy some snack, like small fishes on stick. There is no rush to get into the bus again, we relax get something to eat and drink. No pressure to buy or rush anywhere, almost like when you have your own car. Slowly we finish and start on the sightseeing. Lugu Lake is very beautiful place. Mountain and forest surround the lake, but it is being developed for tourist, and there are quite a few hotel/buildings popping up around the shore. So this one is also soon to be like any other lake with building all along the shore side. We drive around it and get some nice pictures taken. Later in the drive up to the drivers farm and inside the grandmother room we are servered snack. Sticky pop corn, rice wine and stronger spirit, so called chicken wings, which is basically a hen chopped to pices and fried, boiled potato. As we enter the room the family is sitting and scnaking on the table next to us. The driver leaves us to drive some people back to their hotel. I think it must have been the sister takes over the entertainment, for a while. She walks over introduces herself. Start to sing even more, a couple of new songs. One thing that kind of impressed with the singing is that it came so natural for them I do not think it was kind of a gimmick for the tourist. They sang so much and with a smile so it appeared be a natural part of them.  We are left for ourselves and it is been chatting and I have to tell my girlfriend that she do not have to translate everything they talk about. Let us just take a few minutes and relax, so she chats and I snack and look around. In the “living room”, cant help noticing the similarities from old farm houses in Norway. Off course the decoration are different, but it is the same building material and building techniques. Also how they “outline” the building is to similar, small “hall”, low doors, the dry food storage etc. This is at 2500 meter above sea level and the temperature is not that different from back home, so I conclude with it is the climate the help develop the same solutions. After the snack it is dinner and more food, this time it is more regular chine food. Now they driver is back and he is in still growing good mode. More alcohol is severed; lucky I’m still on antibiotics I’m excused. This tastes defiantly like some home brewed stuff. Next on the program is the traditional dance show. 5 minutes drives from his farm we are welcomed into a courtyard where it will take place. First two dances are like what you see in the square at LiJiang. This was better presented and organized. The women in their beautiful colorful dresses and the men had also dressed up. Their “costume” was more random put together. At least they had dressed up. After these two dances it started to be a bit unorganized to my tastes. One dance all was invited to join in and people just ran into each other trying to take picture with themselves holding the good looking girls. Thins come to an end and a song contest started. One of the local women sang a song and the tourist was challenged to sing. The tourist song just anything they could think of all cheering and the tourist is thrown to the air by the local. This went on for quite some time. Around 11 pm we finally made it back to village we should stay for the next two night. After checking out a few hotel room we settled for one and had a excellent night sleep.  We had been on our feet since before 5 am and had travelled a lot and seen lot.
Next day we had one of those perfect days. It was nice weather little other tourist around. We had brunch and then a couple that was on the bus the day before walked bay. It was a german married to a woman from Beijing, now they lived close to Frankfurt, Germany. We chatted for a while and my girlfriend got along with the woman and exchanged contact information. After brunch we had a walk around and relaxed. We did not do much, but it is one of the days I remember the best. We was so relaxed and “connected” that day. In the evening we had dinner at one of the restaurant where you can barbeque your own food. Still have to smile of it, when the “waiter” was taking our order. Some of the food made a run for the freedom and lake. So he had to leave the notepad at tour table and chase down two frogs that had escaped the “cook”. The cook sat a few meter away from with her back towards us, and was handling something inside a net. They waiter did not say a thing or smile; it was just business as usual when we got back.

Again girlfriend did a great job ordering for me, we shared a beer and sat outside and watched the moon and the few people passing buy. We spent some time there chatting with each other. My girlfriend chatted with one of the girls working there and got the explanation on how the walking marriage is working today. It is still practiced, but it is uncommon to have children before you are serious and most marriages last a life time. So not so “ecotix” as the tourist brochure, but more like a regular marriage. As always we ordered to much food and my girlfriend exchanged dishes with a single girl travelling with the same bus as us.
Next day we had another early start to get back to LiJiang. The bus left at 6 am and it was more people on the return. A couple was sitting on the engine case (inside the bus) next to the driver. Guy facing traffic and woman facing back. On the bumpy and turning roads it ended as it must, the poor woman got car sick ant throw up in the bus. I was sitting at the very back seat next to a young couple that we had left with. I must share the observation I made. It was a modern young adults, well dressed. As always the woman better dressed than the man. With the big sunglasses which is in fashion, nice summer dress. My point is a modern “city” couple. After a while the guy started to fell asleep. You know when your head start to nod, and no place to rest it. This happened several times. What happened was that the woman first put his head back up, then she start to support it with her hands ! It was kind of touching, and surprising, to see this from this young and “modern” couple. In the afternoon we had back into LiJiang again and find our way directly to the bus terminal. We have loose plans to see Tiger Leaping Gorge, this is more my wish, and we buy tickets to that place. It is half way to Shangri La which is our final destination, so our plans are to make a stop there and get on the bus to Shangr La.

I will try to finish my write up tomorrow with the small events from Shangri La and hald a day in Kunming.

« Last Edit: May 30, 2010, 06:07:41 am by daghoi »

shaun

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Re: My trip in Yuannen and more
« Reply #14 on: May 30, 2010, 08:50:07 am »
Wonderful explanation about the trip.  But what about the girl?  We don't need to know everything.  Yes we do.  No, really we don't but how is the relationship developing?  Have you kissed her?  Are you holding hands?   Is she warming up to you?  You're holding out on us!!!!!!