We used CYTS, China Youth Travel Service, or something like that. And even if it states, YOUTH... Most of the people there were from other agencies and older people. But they were trustworthy. And they are quite big company, have many offices around the country.
She searched the Internet first, to find out about different prices. CYTS was about 100rmb more expensive than the internet ones. But they have a big local office, and are well known/trustworthy, so we decided to pay the 100rmb more for security (except the buss driver was a madman haha
)
We paid 2500 yuan for 2 people for a 5 day trip to Jiuzhaigou and Huanlong, hotel, food, transports, tickets etc. included. No one spoke English from that travel group... Except my girl, but we used another language more than English anyway.
And once we reached the destination, the group leader let us roam around freely and go where we wanted in the place. So we could spend time together just the two of us, and walk slowly/fast however we felt like. And not wait for other people, or others waiting for us... Instead of following some person with a microphone yelling, or holding a flag... She told us a time when the buss leaves back to hotel (when to return to the gates). And everything worked fine.
I was really satisfied. And might use them in the future as well, depending how things work out.
Oh and about Lijiang. I was there also, lived in the old town 70rmb/night a quiet room for two. And the inn owner always would arrange us on small local tours, mini buss, 4-7 people in the buss. And take us somewhere, to see all kinds of pretty things. And we would pay a ridiculous small price for the tips/travel fee. She even got us front row seats from Lijiang local Naxi music show. So if you find a good inn. The owner will help you a lot.