Author Topic: Our trip to Neimenggu........  (Read 6904 times)

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Paul Todd

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Our trip to Neimenggu........
« on: August 02, 2010, 10:43:03 pm »
We set off yesterday morning for the 12 hour drive up to Neimenggu or Inner Mongolia to you and me. It started with the usual 2 hour drive from Baoding to Beijing and then we headed up north past Badaling and the Great wall of China. We where discussing this in the car when I asked what the literal translation of " Cheng Chung" that's what the Chinese call it [ that's my spelling of it!] was and it's " Long City" which I found interesting along with the "Great Wall Shop" Well It's not like the Chinese to miss a marketing opportunity is it!
 We spent the next few hours steadily climbing past beautiful green countryside and the classic Chinese jagged mountain profiles then the trees disappeared and the scenery gave way to bare rock cliffs. We past a few unbelievably bleak small towns that looked like there only reason for existence was to service the numerous beat up trucks that plied there trade between the Provence's. These towns had a single black top road heading through them and to both sides it was compacted earth that had been churned up and filled with stagnant water and diesel oil along with the general rubbish that is discarded along the way. Add to that piles of rusting scrap metal and used tires and you get the picture. I had one of those moments when it hits you, just how lucky an privileged you are purely by an accident of birth.
Then it  was on to the Mongolian plateau, rich red fertile earth with all types of crops growing their.It was here I saw my first "Yurt encampment". In the past I had spent time living in Teepee's in the Welsh valleys and numerous converted bus's and camper vans so I was quite excited to see my first "wild" Yurt as it were. I have some friend s who have land in Portugal that are living in one and I always quite fancied it. I was disappointed I have to say, not in the yurts themselves or the fact that some had new 4 wheel drive SUV's outside them but because in this vast landscape that was just made for nomadic living the had pitched them in perfectly straight lines! Then we past through a wetland nature reserve and as the miles ticked by the landscape grew more  and more arid and the fields where replaced by scrubby desert.
We got within 100 km of our target, the small town of Xilinhote where Ming Zhi's aunt lives and our first port of call. We gave her son a call to tell him were we where. He told us that the road ahead had been dug up for the best part of 50k and advised us to drive down the wrong side of a duel carriageway into town. This was not as bad as it sounds but still a bit scary. It unfolded that the old 2 lane road was being resurfaced and a new 2 lane road had been built paralleling it for traffic running in the opposite direction. So we followed his advice and crossed over the central reservation and headed up against the oncoming traffic. To be honest when you get into central Neimenggu there is not that much traffic but what there was were quite surprised to see us coming straight at them along with the traffic policeman who flagged us down a few miles latter!
He was not happy with us and I can't blame him really but Ming zhi was having none of it. She made a quick phone call and then a couple of minutes latter her phone rang and she passed it to the traffic policeman. He became a bit flustered wrote down our cars registration number apologized and said we could carry on! It seems her cousins who is an architect's best friend is the chief of police and it was him who had call the hapless traffic cop! Poor guy I really did sympathise with him. Anyway we drove into town and met up with Ming zhi's cousin in his brand new Lexus 4x4, who directed us to the best hotel in town and insisted on paying for our whole stay. After a quick shower it was off to dinner.
We drove across town to an old courtyard type house and were led into the one room dining area. Two tables where set out for about 10 people each. As the other dinners arrived we where all introduced. Other architects, one being the owner of the practice where Ming zhi's cousin works, the chief of police,doctors and the like. The restaurant if that is what it was had no signs outside or any way of identifying it as such. The food was served and the toasting started. These guy's where seriously heavy drinkers 3 bottles of the Mongol white spirit disappeared in the fist few toasts. Also present were a couple of younger women who were obviously the mistresses of one or two of the guests, first time I had witnessed this. They too were knocking back the stuff ,much to the amusement of all concerned. Our host slowly degenerated into a babbling mess as did his wife and the rest of the guests. I held my own but tried not to catch the eye of anyone proposing the next toast although being the only Westerner there made this tricky! The food on the other hand was fantastic whole roast lambs and lots of spice veggies. Any cuisine that puts a roast lamb in front of you and a sharp knife to slice chunks off with is alright in my book!
Dinner finished it was off for a cruse around town to see the sites in the Lexus, our host's wife driving and him working the indicators. I was not too comfortable about this and was quite pleased when we finally got back to the hotel in one piece.
So today were off to meet my wifes aunt, which I'm looking forward too. More latter....................

Arnold

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2010, 11:55:02 pm »
Paul , you got THE Life . How exciting your Story , need to find some Mongol White Spirit and I'll toast to you and Mingzhi's
always on some kind of adventure . Driving on the wrong side , now what is wrong with that .. in China . People do it here .
More to come ... I'm used to waiting .  ::)

ttwjr32

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #2 on: August 03, 2010, 02:38:09 am »
they do love their lamb in this part of china, great part 1 Paul looking forward to 2

Scottish_Rob

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #3 on: August 03, 2010, 04:35:24 am »
Great update buddy, makes you feel you are right there with you... ;D

Haha I had an incling that you were a 'hippy' haha... ;D ;D

shaun

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #4 on: August 03, 2010, 06:48:48 am »
Great story Paul, looking forward to the rest as usual.  Question.  Did you write travel guides in a previous life?  Hmm...

Offline RobertBfrom aust

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #5 on: August 03, 2010, 08:51:22 am »
A great read Paul , Sujuan's daughter Sun Yao who is here with us has been there so I am asking her questions as your story developes , regards Robert and Sujuan .
Now it is early to bed and late to rise .
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ttwjr32

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #6 on: August 03, 2010, 08:53:28 am »
oh did you take the new guitar with you to entertain everyone???? forgot to ask

Paul Todd

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #7 on: August 04, 2010, 06:12:02 am »
Today I have the mother of all hangovers, even typing is painful. The day started out well enough with a great lunch at a local restaurant with my wife cousin and his family. Then it was off to see Ming Zhi's 80 something old aunt. She lives in the old part of town in courtyard type house. She is a very kindly lady who spends most of her days tending her vegetable garden and we spent a very pleasant couple of hours together. It's been close on 5 years since the two of them last met so there was a lot of catching up to be done.
Then it was back to the hotel for a nap before dinner. I was told we where going to eat in the hotel so that was OK and at 7 we headed down to a very plush private dinning room complete with glass chandeliers. Our 15 other dinner guests where mainly policemen and there wives who as soon as they sat down they started knocking back the evil Mongolian white spirit. It was a hotpot dinner which is not my favorite but eating was secondary to the drinking session that followed. Each of us had a glass jug filled with with the said spirit and a shot glass and the toasts just carried on and on. After maybe half an hour everyone decided that the shot glasses where too small and they moved on to drinking out of the jugs it was then that everything started getting messy. I had been watching how the toasts were done and decided I should have a go much to the delight of all concerned. I figured that I could not do this singly so I raised my jug to 3 or 4 people at a time this still left me having to drain 5 or so. Next one of the wives got up an decided to sing a song! She was brilliant and sang this traditional Mongol folk song as a welcome to my wife and I. More heavy drinking followed and one or two more people got up to sing. Then the jugs where just to small and they stepped up to drinking from bowls. After that point things got a bit hazy and I don't remember getting back to the room, always a bad sign! Apparently I made a good impression with everyone and made some new friends.
Boy am I paying for it this morning! What possessed me to start drinking bowls full of that evil spirit I'll never know. Never Never Never again.

shaun

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2010, 06:31:20 am »
Try using some WD 40 on your finger tips.  :o  :-X Never mind.

Offline Martin

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #9 on: August 04, 2010, 09:58:14 am »
Try using some WD 40 on your finger tips.  :o  :-X Never mind.
hahaha...too funny.

Great trip update Paul.  Its always good to make new friends!

Offline Jason B

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #10 on: August 04, 2010, 07:24:08 pm »
What possessed me to start drinking bowls full of that evil spirit I'll never know. Never Never Never again.

Famous last words!

Great story Paul, you have had an interesting trip.

It seems to me that the older we get the longer it takes to start feeling human again after a little drink.
I WILL have my revenge for having to be clean shaven......once I learn how to tame my Dragon.

ttwjr32

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #11 on: August 04, 2010, 08:04:22 pm »
great update Paul  i have had a few days like that here in China and now i will just have a beer or two at home
or when we go out alone together. when we meet people i just tell them i dont drink anymore

Paul Todd

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2010, 06:41:08 am »
Well, back in the land of the living and fighting fit after my brush with the local firewater we headed off at 8am with Ming zhi's cousin, wife and 20 year old son for a slap up breakfast. I had a serious appetite and cleared everything that was put in front of me eggs, beef, flat bread fried dumplings and other stuff that I have no idea about but it all tasted good to me. Then it was back to the hotel to round up more "friends" who were going to come out with us for a look at the famous Mongolia grasslands. In all there were  the best part of 20 of us packed into a couple of landcruiser's an X5 and of course the Lexus.
We drove out of Xilinghot for an hour or so then headed off down a dirt track, by all accounts the grasslands turn into vast wild flower meadows for about a month every year and its a sight to see. Unfortunately we had just missed the height of this but there where still enough for it to be impressive. Yellow, blue, purple and red flowers could still be seen and I said to my wife that we must come back next year in early July to see it at it's best. We drove around from one beautiful spot to the next stopping to take pictures and generally marvel at the size of the landscape,big skies. I know you guys from the states are use to this, but for a lad from Liverpool well lets just say I felt real small.
The yurt encampments  we came across manly housed sheep or cattle farmers. This time of year it looked idyllic but come the 9 months of winter they have here you would have to come from hardy stock to survive it. Last year I was told that the average depth of snow was 6ft and it was always windy!
After 3 hours or so of this we made our way to a small cluster of yurts where we were going to have lunch. The biggest of them had been turned into a dinning area and the extended family that lived there were cooking up a storm for us. I latter found out the the price of one sheep butchered and cooked is 1400rmd, not cheap but I guess they make a good living for the few months every year that tourist can make it out there. Along with the sheep there was a range of fresh water fish from the nearby lake add a good selection of veggies and dairy products and you have a fantastic meal.
Inside the yurt where three big tables one of which was going to be for those that fancied a drink or two. Having been bitten before I was not keen to be seated at that particular table and did my best to slope off to one of the less dangerous ones. Only to be dragged back, but with much protesting on my part a bottle of the local beer was opened and I was allowed to join in the toasting with that. Of course as the rest of the dinners got into there stride more and more pressure was put on me not to be such a wimp and start downing the white spirit.Not a Chance!  Every thing was going well I resisted all attempts and really enjoyed the food and the company until the chief of police arrived. I had been trading jugs with him a couple of evenings ago and it was like old friends meeting, much laughter at the state we got into and genuine pleasure at seeing each other again. Once he worked out that I was drinking beer he told everyone at the table about our exploits and that was it, well I wasn't going to turn the chief of police down now was I! We knocked back half a dozen shots each and the when he was distracted I snuck out. To be met by howls of laughter by others that had done the same. I grabbed my wife and told everyone we where going to climb a nearby hill and we set off. There was no way I was going to have a repeat performance of the last time. We spent an hour exploring and then went back to the inevitable scene of devastation.
The one good thing about the Neimenggu people when they get drunk is they get stupidly happy drunk and not arsey smash your face in drunk and even better because of there inebriated state I was give the keys to the V8 Lexus!!!!! Yippieeeeeeeee. The chance to drive off road in Mongolia in a car that I could never afford to rent back home let alone buy! When I started drifting it round corners there were a few nervous faces but what the hell it's not like there ever going to let me do this again.
We made it back safe and sound and I managed to get out of another dinner this evening. I now know that dinner is really all about getting wasted and nothing to do with eating at all. So Ming Zhi and I are off out for a pleasant and peaceful dinner together...................................

shaun

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #13 on: August 05, 2010, 07:19:48 am »
Paul, are you trying to say that we American are used to feeling "real small?"   :o ;D You cracked me up with that one.   I used to get the feeling of smallness when I was in my later teens and early twenties when I smoked...  Oh that is another story.

Really Paul and excellent read.  Can't wait for the next installment.  Yes I did know what you meant by feeling small but I couldn't resist poking a little.

ttwjr32

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Re: Our trip to Neimenggu........
« Reply #14 on: August 05, 2010, 08:24:54 am »
 ??? what??